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This is not the conversation where we try to persuade you to drink more milk, nor are we telling you to avoid it at all costs. Enough people out there reduce this ancient food to either a shortcut to intestinal troubles or a jug of beneficial wonder-enzymes. The truth about milk is probably somewhere in between, and the real truth about milk is that it is one of many complicated food choices we face every day.
Canelés are hard to classify. Are they a cookie? A cake? These specialties of the Bordeaux region in France are really in a class of their own. The best among them have a crackly, caramelized outer shell that melts into a soft, caky-custardy interior — an obsession-inducing combination that defies categorization. The golden, crown-like treats have become a common sight in pastry cases around Portland. Who, we wondered, made our ideal version? Well, we'd just have to find out.
The worst fight of my life came two years in and occurred after a Sunday morning trip to our favorite dim sum spot. It was one of those things you find yourself in the middle of, feeling like a natural disaster, wounded and wounding. Unaligned.